![]() The primary difference will be that a deep hole will be created to almost-totally bury the divider. Really, any of the aforementioned landscape edging products can be used in-ground. In-ground landscape edging is usually much more time-intensive and sophisticated to install. On the other hand, some products will have specific connectors for a more secure installation. Connection isn’t always necessary-sometimes the edges will just butt up together. Alternately, many can be molded to do so. The pieces, segments or units will commonly be created to bend where and when necessary or desired. Once the trench is created at the desired depth, the edging is set in and then hammered with a mallet or wood block and mallet, to drive it into the ground. However, for shallow root grasses, you will still want your trench to be deep enough so that your edging doesn’t extend so far above the ground that it becomes a tripping hazard. Generally speaking, you want your trench to be deeper than the root length (the depth that your grass’ roots will extend into the ground). The depth of the trench should be based on the root-depth of your specific grass type. To install stake-driven landscape edging, you’ll dig a trench first for the greatest security and stability of your product. However, if that is not desired, this steel can also be pre-sealed before use. ![]() Over time, COR-TEN steel does oxidize, but nicely-to a handsome patina. Some of the steel landscaping edging products – such as those manufactured with COR-TEN steel, can be very heavy-duty, yet still malleable, and even somewhat weather-resistant. The quality and strength of this type of landscape edging can vary widely, depending on the exact plastic or steel used in the product. The side that goes into the ground will usually have stakes, spikes, corrugation or even just a sharp edge, to penetrate the earth more easily. Most stake-driven landscape edging is man-made – synthetic – and comes in units, segments/pieces or rolls. Since no part of this edging is buried below the surface, the spreading roots of grass will enable it to sprout and grow below and around the divider and even in between if there are cracks or spaces. While the above ground option can obviously be easier and sometimes, seem more attractive or appealing, it’s definitely not a “perfect” choice. If earthen bricks and/or pavers are used, they’re often installed traditionally by staggering the individual units and then applying mortar between them to create a “wall.” If manufactured or synthetic landscape bricks are blocks are selected, then they typically include notches for joining them together. Yet, by creating a barrier between the lawn and its surroundings, it helps to maintain a distinction. The reason it’s a simpler choice is in the very name-this type of edging is merely placed on the ground, without trenching or digging deeply into the earth. Let’s discuss those three basic landscaping edge types in greater detail… Above Ground Landscape EdgingĪbove ground landscape edging is probably the simplest of your landscape edge options. Other fencing and plastic or steel edging, as well as brick or block edging that is buried at the landscape edge ( in-ground).Some types of lattice-fencing and some plastic roll edging or steel edging products ( stake-driven).Bricks, pavers and timber ( above ground).Some of the most common landscape edge options include: ![]() The three primary types are above ground, stake-driven or in-ground. Ultimately, if you go the “natural” way and want that clear line between lawn and walks or driveway, or lawn and flower beds or shrubbery, that demand is going to be your reality.īut the good news is that you have other choices! Lawn and landscape edging products enable creation of a permanent (or semi-permanent, depending on the edging option chosen) barrier between the lawn and surrounding areas.Īdditionally, lawn and landscape edging products help reduce the effort needed to maintain those clean lines.įurthermore, if the edging material is chosen and installed carefully, it can be fairly attention (and worry!) free for some time. Not everyone has the time (or energy) to maintain a natural – yet clean and distinct – lawn edge that will need attention every 2 to 3 weeks. ![]()
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